Maximum wave height in a recorded burst of raw data.

Number of sample points in a record.

Significant period = average period of the waves used to define Hsig.

Average significant wave height recorded during a storm event.

Average spectral peak period recorded during a storm event.

Average significant wave period recorded during a storm event.

Average wave power level recorded during a storm event.

A broken swell wave travelling shorewards across the surf zone.

The ratio between the height of a wave and the water depth in which the wave breaks.

That area of coastal waters where shoaling effects cause swell waves to break. This typically occurs in the shallow waters over an offshore bar.