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Definitions (21)
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by margaret olsen
You can download the glossary as a Microsoft Word document
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wave crest
The highest part of a wave.
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wave trough
The lowest part of a wave.
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wave height
The vertical distance between the highest (crest) and lowest (trough) parts of a wave.
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wavelength
The distance from a certain point on one wave to the same point on the next wave (e.g. distance between two consecutive wave crests or between two consecutive wave troughs).
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wave amplitude
One half the distance from the crest to the trough. Wave amplitude is a more technical term for wave height and is used in engineering technology.
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wave frequency
The number of waves passing a fixed point in a specified period of time. Frequency has units of waves per second or cycles per second. Another unit for frequency is the Hertz (abbreviated Hz) where 1 Hz is equivalent to 1 cycle per second.
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wave period
The time it takes for two successive crests (one wavelength) to pass a specified point.
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wave speed
The distance the wave travels divided by the time it takes to travel that distance. Wave speed is determined by dividing the wavelength by the wave period. In symbols c = λBB; / T, where c is the wave speed, λ (lambda) is the wavelength, and T is the period.
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wave steepness
The ratio of height to wavelength. When wave steepness exceeds 1:7, breakers form. If a wave has a height of one foot and a length from crest to crest of 8 feet, then the ratio is 1:8 and this wave is not going to break. But if the height is 1 foot and the length decreases to 5 feet, then the ratio is 1:5 and this wave has now become so steep that [..]
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